Washington Post restaurant reviews Baltimore
La Cuchara
GOOD/EXCELLENT
The uptick in Basque accents around the country is on display regionally at La Cuchara, which weighs in with 8, 500 square feet and a menu of pintxos (bar snacks), primeros (appetizers) and larger plates, some sprung from a showy grill (platos de asador madera) in the open kitchen. Chef Ben Lefenfeld changes his script, sometimes daily, to highlight the season’s best finds. Experience has taught me to put my trust in the bartender, the bread baker and the cooks trained to let the food speak for itself. Brined veal tongue and charred cabbage tucked into a cumin roll make a memorable three-way. Another fond memory: branzino scented with sage and set on scarlet beet puree. You might be sorry to lose a favorite dish between visits, but also cheered to encounter a fresh idea. Warmed up with guitar music and homey touches, like a collection of spoons on a wall, Baltimore’s biggest restaurant is also one of its best.
Previous: Kyirisan | Next: Le Diplomate
La Cuchara: .
Prices: Mains -.
Sound check: 83 decibels / Extremely loud.
The following review was originally published Aug. 31, 2016.
La Cuchara review: Big, brash and Basque in Baltimore
First, there’s the enormity of the place. Restaurants clocking in at 8, 500 square feet don’t come along every day. When I later learn that La Cuchara, one of the best things to happen to Baltimore in several seasons, was carved from a former London Fog factory, I’m not surprised.
